Costume Store - Breeches

As soon as I was able to I cut my top fabric, whilst backed to the lining pieces I'd previously cut, and tacked them together in order to begin to construction of the garment.

Afterwards those of us who were making a pair of breeches sat down as a group to examine the sample breeches provided to by Dexter. By doing this we began to discuss the possible order of its construction and the specific ways it might have been put together eg; slip stitching, top stitching etc. It was clear that to see that the order of its construction would have to be considered specifically before we began making it. It had a few elements which could prove to be a hassle if neglected and set how efficiently I worked on this garment eg; pockets, yokes, waistband etc.

From our group discussion we all agreed that the first thing we'd each have to tackle would the front of our breeches; the front flap. It seemed to be the most complex piece of the garment and would have to be pristinely finished because it is the focal point of the garment. We then all agreed that the next thing we'd have to tackle would be the pockets. Examining the pockets, then doing a little research (and from my own knowledge) it seemed to me the breeches required a small 'Welt Pocket' and a 'Western Pocket', a pocket commonly found on jeans/trousers.

Before actually diving straight into the construction of the breeches I felt I need confirmation that the ideas we'd had as a group for how the garment would be made was correct. We all spoke to Dexter together clearing up any confusion and being reassured that our instincts had been correct on must things. Upon hearing this I was very pleased with the progress I'd felt I'd personally made in the last few weeks. Normally I'd have no idea how to construct something without look at 'step-by-step' guides and following every way possible. However now I felt a lot more comfortable constructing a garment by examining an example garment first to try and figure out its construction before consulting the instructions provided/tutor. It feels like I'm beginning to progress my skills and confidence as a maker, making my eye for detail more sharp/accurate and focused. 

Breeches Instructions;

• To begin I first sewed up the centre front of the breeches, pressed the fabric and pressed open its seam allowance. Next I cut down the central lines marked tacked inside the pointed details on the front of the piece. This would then release the flap. The cut down this central mark tacked line is the length of the yoke.
• Make lining for the flap and attach to the top of the flap going 'right-side-to-right-side'

• Next prepare the yolk. This is done by sewing down the front part of the flap and along the bottom of it. Trim seam allowance and then bag the piece out. 
• Pin down the other edge of the yoke to the mark tack on the edge of the flap line cut made on the garment piece, top fabric ONLY. Machine sew this down

*** When pulled over with top fabric facing up should look like this

• Attach the lining to the garment piece by slip stitching and concealing the inside raw seam edge

***  Now return to the front flap of the breeches and continue to attach the decorative strap/pointed detailing

• Pin down the detailed strap against the other mark tacked line on the front flap (next to the one originally cut down to release the flap). Sew all the way down past the cut point matching up the mark tackings
• Next fold the flap around and then press. Tack all of it in place for precision (especially to obtain a good sharp point detail) and when happy with its position slip stitch in place. 
• Slip stitch the yoke to this detail on the inside.