Costume Store - Victorian Blouse

On Thursday my fabric arrived at uni from the supplier just in time for my next costume store working day on Friday. I was a little worried that I'd be majorly behind on Friday as the vast majority of the class had recieved their fabric on Wednesday meaning they could have cut out, tacked and started on their blouses by now. However on Friday I was quite surprised, and mildly pleased, that half the class were in my situation and the other half had barely got anywhere with drafting their pattern. Now in a more positive mind set I began to prepare to myself for tackling the blouse.

My fabric, previously mentioned, was silk cotton (bleached agre)  in neutral soft colours of cream, brown etc. It seemed a really unusual choice of fabric for a blouse due to its strange texture and thickness. It reminded me of parchment paper and the natural weft of the fabric produced a pattern lightly wall paper like. It was very different to everyone else's floral/plain/thin striped fabric, which I quite liked. After ironing my fabric, folding it to the salvage and pinning down my pattern pieces, I set to work cutting out the sections of my blouse.This how I started off...

Whilst the fabric was folded salvage-to-salvage pin the pattern pieces down. Draw on the pattern require of the separate pieces and add on a 2.5cm seam allowance on each one.

Sew up all the darts; 4 on the back piece and the 2 on each of the front pieces. After this is done press the darts flat; darts on the back being pressed towards the center back and the darts on the front pieces being pressed towards the center front. Pressing them in these directions will help them to stay flat when worn/ applied to the body.

Now start on the sleeves. Cut along the incision line at the bottom of the sleeve. You'll need to bind this to create as smooth finish/ stop spreading a tear. From the top side sew your binding along the cut you've made making sure when you reach the point to stop the sewing machine, pivot the needle and then sew downwards. Fold the binding, press and top stitch down. On the inside of the sleeve make a small at the top of the incision/binding. This means you can pull the points over each other giving a better finish (flatter...).

Sew the seams together and press open/flat.

At the bottom of the sleeve fold the pleats and pin in place. Next pin the cuff down from one point of the cuff opening to the other, pinning over the pleats. Sew the cuff down and then fold over to top stitch. Top stitch down, press and then top stitch around all the cuff.

At this point I've now managed to construct both sleeves ready for attachment, buttons, embellishment and the darts in the main body of the garment. The next area I need to address is the organza pleated yoke and collar of the blouse which I will begin during the next assisted costume store session in the studio. 

Costume Store - Victorian Blouse

Today we were briefed on the final garment we'd be constructing for costume store; a Victorian blouse. Just like with the shirt there was a possible 3 blouses we'd be working from, and we'd be need to construct them in different sizes to each other. The blouse I'd be required to make was blouse 1.

**View of front of blouse

** Side view of blouse

** Back view of blouse

** Close up of front of blouse; pleated yolk detail

I was then informed that the size I'd be required to construct my blouse in was a size 16 and I'd be using a silk cotton (agra bleached) as the main fabric for the blouse, organza for the pleated detailing and lace for all the trimmings in a mixture of creamy colours. Unfortunately my main fabric hadn't arrived yet so I couldn't actually start the construction of the garment. To start off I did as I had previously done with the other two garments and examined the example garment and the pattern provided. The overall look of the garment was quite structured compared to the other two blouses. The shape is quite fitted due to the use of darts at the waist in the front and back pieces. Even the sleeves were quite fitted to the body (no gatherings etc). Due to the sharpness of the basic shape it doesn't appear too difficult to construct compared to the other two blouses. The main focal and time consuming point will certainly be the pleated detailed yoke/bib at the of the blouse. This will no doubtingly require time, patience and precision in order to achieve perfect symmetry. 

Since I wasn't able to make a start with my blouse I turned my attention back to my breeches. Since my last blog I'd managed to make quite a bit of progress with the construction of them. All I had left to do was to attach the waistband and finish off all the hand sewing needed to conceal any raw edges etc. I'd actually really enjoyed the construction of the breeches. It was a good challenge I think I needed as a costume maker in order to develop my construction/ problem solving skills and confidence in making. The hardest part I found was the flap construction at the beginning. I'd cut too far into the line needed to attach the yoke so found it difficult to get the pointed detailing to sit flat/correctly. I've taken this into account as a learning curve/ experience to remember the next time I'm faced similar construction situation. 

By the end of the session all that is left to do is to sew on the buttons to the breeches...

Breathe - Hunters

Leaving aside the Jesters for one moment I decided to focus a little bit on the 'Hunters'. I'd been given the task of making on the Hunters cloaks which needed to be quite textural and structural. I'd be working along side Naomi, Kim and Danielle to make the cloaks. The Breathe girls had told us that they wanted the capes to be different but work along side each other, like a unit, but still be individual despite all the design looking a like.
This is the design I'd be making a cloak for...

We decided as a team that the first thing we needed to do is make a base layer/cloak for each one to then be worked upon in slightly different ways. To do this we started doing some research in pattern books for ways to construct cloaks/ collars. By mid afternoon we'd all decided that the best approach would in fact be using a pattern similar to a skirts one which is made up of quarterly sections. From this we drafted a basic pattern that we used systematically (adjusting in length for each cloak design) to produce each cloak time efficiently. 

Since we all worked as a team to make the cloak bases the easy part was over and done with quite quickly. The next task was to make sure the cloak draped appropriately on a mannequin before preparing to have a group discussion with the designers and Adele our tutor. 

During the meeting we began to share ideas of how each of us had a vision of the final outcome and how we develop the ideas into a successful conclusion. We all agreed that the inside of the cape would have concealed arm band that the wearer could easily slip into/out of so that they would have control of the cape at all times instead of being downed in a mass of fabric. We also spoke of the different textural qualities Kate (the designer) wanted to achieve. She spoke of how her inspiration had come from Indians etc but soon was drawn onto another path after we all spoke of warriors such as the Vikings. To me this seemed much more of a logical source to use for inspiration considering the theme, resources available and idea for how to style/ fix the cloak at the end. 

After leaving the meeting I began to research images of the Vikings to source inspiration for how to fashion the cloak. Many resources inclined that they would have worn heavy woollen clothing in order to stay warm (including cloaks, tunics, trousers etc) all secured in place with metal brooches. Baring that in mind and looking at visual references I came up with this kind of look.. 

** Front view

*** Side View

*** Back View

This type of design was all done by pinning so when it's complete it could be pinned and then stitched in place. The next job to do will be to dye the base cloaks autumnal/ war like shades of reds/browns so to keep the unity amongst the designs and provide a more interesting base to work with on top and be visible underneath.. 

Breathe (2)..

After returning back from Easter we had our second 'Breathe' meeting for this unit of my SDP. By this time all the designs for the production had been finished and finalised so we were allocated our designs and teams we'd be working in.

Here are some examples of the designs/ groups...

I will be working on bits and pieces for all there of these groups. For the 'Jesters' I will be working along side 3 other students to make hats, collars, skirts, breeches and sleeves. There is a lot of work for these costumes so we began discussing various ways we can produce the custom elements for the base costumes quickly, effectively and efficiently. We thought that elements such as the collars could be done during workshop run sessions for the 'Breathe Club' being held after studio practise time on Wednesday evenings. Myself and one other student decided we'd work together to come up with a workshop plan as a solution. More complicated aspects would be tackled during our Thursday studio sessions...

The other 2 students I'm working with for the 'Hunters were absent during this session so we didn't get a  chance to have a discussion for how to tackle the design work. However I did come up with a few ideas which I spoke with my supervisors to. They were ideas on certain materials we might use, textile processes etc. The main elements of these designs are the cloaks and the headdresses. They want a more structured, layered appearance so lots of problem solving will be needed for these costumes. As well as working as part of a team in this unit for hand in we will have needed to have constructed our own individual element of a costume(s). I got the choice of which 'Hunter' character to focus on as well as helping with team pieces/ workshops. For this design I will focus on construction the cloak..

I was also going to focus making on a pair of breeches for a 'Jester' costume however another student in the third year wanted to help so she will now be doing this. I was then asked if I'd help make a skirt for one of the 'Rebels'. I really like the design for this so I wasn't unhappy about the swap. For this design there was talks of using lots of recycled plastics as well as other types of materials. This is something quite different and quirky from what I'm used to working with so I'm quite excited to take on the challenge.... 

Now having the designs and seeing what we've got to work with I'm a lot more motivated and enthusiastic towards the project. It's something very different from what I've worked on previously in other units and from the costume store side of SDP. Instead its very creative and inventive. I think it'll develop my creativity as a costume maker further, challenging me in ways to construct garments and using materials I'd never thought. Already it's helping me to work as a team player and as a leader when thinking of possible workshops to run in the 'Breathe Club'....

Costume Store - Breeches

After returning from the Easter break we were thrown immediately into the construction of our second garment. Each member of the class had been assigned to make either a pair of 18th century fall front breeches or waistcoat. I'd been assigned to make the breeches.

When I'd found out I was making the breeches I was a little worried. They looked quite intimidating from first glance due to all the components they comprised of such as; two different working pockets, front flap openings, all fully lined etc. It would definitely be a challenge to make compared to the shirt and any of the other previous garments I'd made so far this year. But a challenge isn't something I normally shy away from so I saw this selection as something positive. 

Breeches...

This is the sample garment...

Once I'd learnt which garment I'd been making I was then allocated my measurements, given my pattern and given the fabric I'd be working on. The fabrics I'd be using was brown cashmere wool with a black cotton used to back everything. These sorts of fabrics were very luxurious compared to some of the others being used. So it would seem that these breeches along with the matching waistcoat, being made by Bethany, would be used to portray a more upper class, wealthy character in future productions/ uses.

Once all the basic information had been provided the next task was to cut out the lining and top fabric. I managed to cut out the lining fabrics quite quickly and efficiently working as a team with the other girls using the same lining fabric/ pattern. However I couldn't then cut my top fabric out due to Bethany's absence. I'd learnt previously in costume 'wastage' is a huge issue with fabric, especially as you're usually working on a tight budget. This time was no exception. We'd already been informed but the supervisor, Amy, that there was only enough fabric to cut out the pieces tightly squished together. Due to this I'd have to be very economically efficient when cutting and wait for Bethany's return. Once this happens I'd then be able to press on with the next stages of the breeches construction... 

Breathe

As part of SDP the costume store project is also joined with another on going project linking to 'Battle for the Winds'. This project with called 'Breathe'. The costumes for this production were a collaboration of the designers from second year costume students and finalised by professionals. 

We we briefed about the project in the first week of SDP were we talked through the costumes concepts etc. It had been decided that performers in the production were being divided up into 6 different groups; 

• Jesters
• Rebels
• Hunters
• Collectors
• Builders
• Elders

Each of these groups would have individual costumes uniting them as different collectives/ 'tribes'. However as they are all 'Brethers' the individual costumes would be built upon a base costume to unite them as a whole. 

The base costume is comprised of a dyed t-shirt and trousers which are then reworked with paint and then customised for the different performer groups.

Example of base costumes... 

We were treating the first sessions of Breathe as a warm up team building session and to really get to grips of what the project would entail. For the first day we were trying to get as much of the base costumes completed ready for next term.

As the session drew on it became obvious that the project as a whole was far too big for the third year students alone to handle. Myself and the costume store students were originally angry and confused as to why we had been forced upon the project when we'd decided it wasn't something we wanted to do. However, as more of the information about the project was given to us and the more we learnt what we'd be involved in it became more of an attractive opportunity to develop confidence, team work, textile and perhaps construction skills. 

Costume Store - Shirt

To begin the construction of the shirt I first examined the example garment provided by Dexter. By doing so I could familiarise myself with all the seams and other construction techniques used to assemble the garment. It was made clear to us that the majority of the unit would be done independently. This is so to develop my awareness of garment construction as a maker to a higher standard; noting important little details, being able to figure out construction order and confidence. 

Once I had an idea of how to construct the garment; gather stitches used in certain places, assembling order etc. I spoke to Dexter to confirm and have corrected my self thought instructions. From then on it seemed like the construction of the shirt would be fairly straight forward and simple however there were a few problems I experienced. 

The first problem came when I had to attach the placket at the front of the garment. Unfortunately I'd snipped into the front of the shirt were the placket folded through an opening too far. The snip kept stretching forming a tear in the garment. It took me quite sometime to manoeuvre the placket then into an appropriate position so the tear would be covered and not spread any further. From this experience I knew I'd have to be a lot more careful with any incisions needed when constructing garments. To be a good maker I need a keen eye for detail so I can't afford to keep making little mistakes such as this one.

The next dilemma I faced was to do with the sleeve. Myself and another girl making the same shirt noticed that the heads on the sleeves of the example shirt had been gathered all the way around. However we'd been previously told by Dexter to only gather at the head point. To find a solution I did a bit of research into sleeve construction and period garment wear. It became apparent that we should follow the advice given by the tutor and not to follow the example shirt. Having gathers all the way around the sleeve head would make it quite bulky/ voluminous, especially if gathered at the front. The historical research (images, patterns) indicated the shirt was gathered just at the eye of the sleeve head. Once this problem had been resolved I continued with the construction.

I carried on putting the cuffs on, overlocking etc the shirt until I encountered another problem with the shirt with the other girls constructing it. When it came to the collar it turned out the piece we'd cut according to the pattern was too large to fit the neck hole. It became too late in the day to figure out a solution to the problem however Dexter agreed to help us resolve the matter another time. This problem made me realise that I should have checked the pattern properly with the other girls who were working with it. If we'd done so we would've been able to fix the problem sooner and carry on completing the shirt. This is a valuable lesson though to have learnt; as a maker always check the patterns you've been given to work from. Especially if you haven't drafted them yourself...

Research example 1)

The Start of my Self Directed Project aka SDP..

Having just handed in my CIC; Battle for the Winds project for assessment I can now start to think about working towards. This project was enjoyable at times to work upon and at others time consuming and testing/ frustrating. It gave me a chance to expand my knowledge and skills of textile techniques, devices and crafting skills (knitting). I was also a big eye opener for me just how independently each maker was expected to work , the standard expected of my work and the importance of time keeping. 

For this project I'm baring all the lessons I've learnt in mind in order to push myself to achieve the highest standard of work possible which will be eventually reflected from my grade. Time keeping, motivation and accuracy will be the key to success for my Self Directed Project.

At the start of the week the year group as a whole was introduced to this unit with a brief presentations on 'Learning Agreements' and 'Work Planning'. When reflecting on my past efforts with CIC my time planning for my work was poor. As a result I let my standards slide which reflected on my work. This is something I'm very keen not to do again with this unit. 

Later in the afternoon I had my briefing. The area I've decided to focus on is 'The Costume Store'. This will involve creating a collection of garment for the AUCB costume store to be used at various times/ purposes. The weeks of the project will be divided into working time for different garments;

Weeks 1& 2;

- An Edwardian Shirt

Weeks 3, 4 & 5

- 18th Century Breeches OR Waistcoat

Weeks 6, 7 &8 

- Victorian Blouse

The construction of each garment will be done in a simulated workroom environment and each of the garments will be a test of my construction skills; accuracy, neatness and precision. 

I was allocated shirt 3 out of the 3 possible options. This is a standard Edwardian shirt in the style of a 'Pie Crust Shirt' ..

I will be making this along side 2 other girls. In order to be time efficient  we're learning to work as part of a team; helping each other to figure out the ways the shirt could've been constructed , cutting out of top fabric in a systematic way etc. I've learnt a valuable lesson from another shirt team who's pattern wasn't correct to begin with. They instantly started cutting top fabric without examining the pattern only to discover its errors. Mistakes like this can be costly in terms of money and production time. From now on, any pattern I've been given to work on will be double checked to prevent any potential mistakes. 

Dexter, the tutor for this unit, then gave us the first stage of instructions for constructing my shirt. So far this week I've been working at a steady pace and almost finished the first stage of the shirt. I've been taking my time and treating the garment with care and as a result have achieved a neat, crisp and accurate piece so far. This has made me motivated for the up and coming weeks and given me an idea of the pace and standards to work at and excel. 

Tasks for the week; 

• Complete the write up of my 'Learning Agreement'
• Write an 'Action/Work Plan'
• Complete Shirt up to instructions given
• Background research on shirt
• Continue CIC/ Battle for the Winds

Bibliography

Belange – Grafton, P. (1993). Victorian women's fashion cuts - 277 different copyright-free designs printed one side. Dover. New York

 Bradfield, N. (1989). Costume in Detail 1730 - 1930.  London, Harrap.

Davis, R. I. (2000). Men's 17th & 18^th century costume, cut & fashion - patterns for men's costume. Players Press

Ginburg, M. (1982). Victorian dress in Photographs. Batsford. London

Grey, M. (2008). Textiles Translations: Mixed Media. UK, d4daisy Books Ltd.

Rushton, P. (1999). 18^th Century Costume in the National Museums and Galleries on Merseyside. National Museums and Galleries Merseyside. Liverpool

Stewart-Jones, H. (1998). Rocks, shells, fossils, minerals & gems – the complete collectors companion.UK, Grange Books plc.

Styles, J. (2007). The dress of the people : everyday fashion in eighteenth-century England. Yale University Press. London

Grey, M. (2008). Textiles Translations: Mixed Media. UK, d4daisy Books Ltd.