Breathe - Hunters

After making the base cloak and dying/painting it base colours to work on the next task to tackle was to begin the fabric layer segments. Kate had decided specific leathers and furs she'd like us to work into each design but we were a little lost with how to start approaching the more rough, course layer. 

Luckily Grace approached us with a textile sample she'd made previously. It was a very simple but really effective textile sample of which she'd layered different textured, loosely woven fabric and embroidered together with circle stitches to look like barnacles and keep with the ocean tie to the piece. The end result looked great; really worn, textural and ruggered. We all decided to take this sample on board and try it on a large scale over our cloaks for the more layered/ textural layer.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to get started on this until my cloaked had dried from the dye painting I'd done on it so I had to wait to get started on this during the 'Breathe Club' evening on the following Wednesday. As soon as I got started the technique felt very easy, fast and effective for what we were aiming to achieve. I really got into trying out the various layers, distressing some to give it a more worn out, battered look. As if the cloak had been through harsh times/environments. Although embroidery with machines isn't my strongest point it didn't seem to matter for this. The slightly off shapes holding bits in place gave an edge to its detailing; ethic style. I even began to experiment trapping some of the barnacle being made during the workshops in the layers to give its detailing a more 3D appearance. I was quite pleased with the end result for the top layer and the progress its made so far..... 

** Front View

** Back View

** Close Up 

Costume Store - Victorian Blouse

Today we were briefed on the final garment we'd be constructing for costume store; a Victorian blouse. Just like with the shirt there was a possible 3 blouses we'd be working from, and we'd be need to construct them in different sizes to each other. The blouse I'd be required to make was blouse 1.

**View of front of blouse

** Side view of blouse

** Back view of blouse

** Close up of front of blouse; pleated yolk detail

I was then informed that the size I'd be required to construct my blouse in was a size 16 and I'd be using a silk cotton (agra bleached) as the main fabric for the blouse, organza for the pleated detailing and lace for all the trimmings in a mixture of creamy colours. Unfortunately my main fabric hadn't arrived yet so I couldn't actually start the construction of the garment. To start off I did as I had previously done with the other two garments and examined the example garment and the pattern provided. The overall look of the garment was quite structured compared to the other two blouses. The shape is quite fitted due to the use of darts at the waist in the front and back pieces. Even the sleeves were quite fitted to the body (no gatherings etc). Due to the sharpness of the basic shape it doesn't appear too difficult to construct compared to the other two blouses. The main focal and time consuming point will certainly be the pleated detailed yoke/bib at the of the blouse. This will no doubtingly require time, patience and precision in order to achieve perfect symmetry. 

Since I wasn't able to make a start with my blouse I turned my attention back to my breeches. Since my last blog I'd managed to make quite a bit of progress with the construction of them. All I had left to do was to attach the waistband and finish off all the hand sewing needed to conceal any raw edges etc. I'd actually really enjoyed the construction of the breeches. It was a good challenge I think I needed as a costume maker in order to develop my construction/ problem solving skills and confidence in making. The hardest part I found was the flap construction at the beginning. I'd cut too far into the line needed to attach the yoke so found it difficult to get the pointed detailing to sit flat/correctly. I've taken this into account as a learning curve/ experience to remember the next time I'm faced similar construction situation. 

By the end of the session all that is left to do is to sew on the buttons to the breeches...

Breathe - Hunters

Leaving aside the Jesters for one moment I decided to focus a little bit on the 'Hunters'. I'd been given the task of making on the Hunters cloaks which needed to be quite textural and structural. I'd be working along side Naomi, Kim and Danielle to make the cloaks. The Breathe girls had told us that they wanted the capes to be different but work along side each other, like a unit, but still be individual despite all the design looking a like.
This is the design I'd be making a cloak for...

We decided as a team that the first thing we needed to do is make a base layer/cloak for each one to then be worked upon in slightly different ways. To do this we started doing some research in pattern books for ways to construct cloaks/ collars. By mid afternoon we'd all decided that the best approach would in fact be using a pattern similar to a skirts one which is made up of quarterly sections. From this we drafted a basic pattern that we used systematically (adjusting in length for each cloak design) to produce each cloak time efficiently. 

Since we all worked as a team to make the cloak bases the easy part was over and done with quite quickly. The next task was to make sure the cloak draped appropriately on a mannequin before preparing to have a group discussion with the designers and Adele our tutor. 

During the meeting we began to share ideas of how each of us had a vision of the final outcome and how we develop the ideas into a successful conclusion. We all agreed that the inside of the cape would have concealed arm band that the wearer could easily slip into/out of so that they would have control of the cape at all times instead of being downed in a mass of fabric. We also spoke of the different textural qualities Kate (the designer) wanted to achieve. She spoke of how her inspiration had come from Indians etc but soon was drawn onto another path after we all spoke of warriors such as the Vikings. To me this seemed much more of a logical source to use for inspiration considering the theme, resources available and idea for how to style/ fix the cloak at the end. 

After leaving the meeting I began to research images of the Vikings to source inspiration for how to fashion the cloak. Many resources inclined that they would have worn heavy woollen clothing in order to stay warm (including cloaks, tunics, trousers etc) all secured in place with metal brooches. Baring that in mind and looking at visual references I came up with this kind of look.. 

** Front view

*** Side View

*** Back View

This type of design was all done by pinning so when it's complete it could be pinned and then stitched in place. The next job to do will be to dye the base cloaks autumnal/ war like shades of reds/browns so to keep the unity amongst the designs and provide a more interesting base to work with on top and be visible underneath.. 

Costume Store - Breeches

As soon as I was able to I cut my top fabric, whilst backed to the lining pieces I'd previously cut, and tacked them together in order to begin to construction of the garment.

Afterwards those of us who were making a pair of breeches sat down as a group to examine the sample breeches provided to by Dexter. By doing this we began to discuss the possible order of its construction and the specific ways it might have been put together eg; slip stitching, top stitching etc. It was clear that to see that the order of its construction would have to be considered specifically before we began making it. It had a few elements which could prove to be a hassle if neglected and set how efficiently I worked on this garment eg; pockets, yokes, waistband etc.

From our group discussion we all agreed that the first thing we'd each have to tackle would the front of our breeches; the front flap. It seemed to be the most complex piece of the garment and would have to be pristinely finished because it is the focal point of the garment. We then all agreed that the next thing we'd have to tackle would be the pockets. Examining the pockets, then doing a little research (and from my own knowledge) it seemed to me the breeches required a small 'Welt Pocket' and a 'Western Pocket', a pocket commonly found on jeans/trousers.

Before actually diving straight into the construction of the breeches I felt I need confirmation that the ideas we'd had as a group for how the garment would be made was correct. We all spoke to Dexter together clearing up any confusion and being reassured that our instincts had been correct on must things. Upon hearing this I was very pleased with the progress I'd felt I'd personally made in the last few weeks. Normally I'd have no idea how to construct something without look at 'step-by-step' guides and following every way possible. However now I felt a lot more comfortable constructing a garment by examining an example garment first to try and figure out its construction before consulting the instructions provided/tutor. It feels like I'm beginning to progress my skills and confidence as a maker, making my eye for detail more sharp/accurate and focused. 

Breeches Instructions;

• To begin I first sewed up the centre front of the breeches, pressed the fabric and pressed open its seam allowance. Next I cut down the central lines marked tacked inside the pointed details on the front of the piece. This would then release the flap. The cut down this central mark tacked line is the length of the yoke.
• Make lining for the flap and attach to the top of the flap going 'right-side-to-right-side'

• Next prepare the yolk. This is done by sewing down the front part of the flap and along the bottom of it. Trim seam allowance and then bag the piece out. 
• Pin down the other edge of the yoke to the mark tack on the edge of the flap line cut made on the garment piece, top fabric ONLY. Machine sew this down

*** When pulled over with top fabric facing up should look like this

• Attach the lining to the garment piece by slip stitching and concealing the inside raw seam edge

***  Now return to the front flap of the breeches and continue to attach the decorative strap/pointed detailing

• Pin down the detailed strap against the other mark tacked line on the front flap (next to the one originally cut down to release the flap). Sew all the way down past the cut point matching up the mark tackings
• Next fold the flap around and then press. Tack all of it in place for precision (especially to obtain a good sharp point detail) and when happy with its position slip stitch in place. 
• Slip stitch the yoke to this detail on the inside.

Breathe - Workshop 1)

The first bit of problem solving I have to tackle in this part of SDP is creating a workshop on how to create the skirts for the 'Jester' characters. There are 5 skirts to make, a fairly large amount for us to create. Here is an example of a costume with the skirt element...

As a group we looked at the designs, analysed them and began to think of ways to construct bits and pieces used to customise the base costumes. We thought that the collars and the skirts had a fun, wacky patch work quality to them. The skirts looked quite simple, just attached to one side of the base costumes trousers. We all agreed that it would be probably best to use the 'Breathe Club' Wednesday evenings to our advantage for these aspects of the costume due to the amount needed to be made. After speaking with our supervisors it was agreed that the collars and skirts would be done next Wednesday (18th April) as a workshop exercise. I would come up with a workshop session for the skirts.  

The construction of the skirts must be straight forward, quick and easy to make due to our time frame but also baring in mind that some of the volunteers working amongst us will be disabled. After trying a few different techniques to make a patch work skirt the best method I thought and tested was a weaving method. The result looked like this... 

I did it by simply using a combination of trimmings and recycled strips of cut plastic bags. Here is how I did it...

• Pin a selection of trimmings downwards along a length of ribbon. Make sure main ribbon is long. Repeat on second ribbon.
• Machine sew down the two lengths of ribbon so both strips have the trimmings attached. Then machine sew both the main ribbons together so the trimmings criss cross each other.
• Take the first ribbon running lengthways and weave it under and over the ribbons running downwards. Repeat this action with the next ribbon lengths ways but in an opposite weave. Keep alternating the weave pattern until all ribbon lengths are woven.
• Pin the final woven ribbons in place. 
• Add a final ribbon running downwards and machine sew it to the ends to secure the weave. 
• Machine sew length ways along the final woven ribbon.
• Leave the ends of the ribbons/trimmings at different lengths and loose.

It was very simple and fast to construct. It could then either be top stitched to the base costume trousers or attach a channel at the top so could be threaded with a belt. The end result is quite fun/ vibrant and could be then worked into by others with paint etc. breaking it down for a more 'earthy' appearance of the 'Breathers'. I also liked how easy it was to incorporate different types of materials such as fabrics and plastics to create a clash between textures and colours. To me it seems like a good interpretation from the design. My next step is to show the sample to the supervisors and see their response and if its suitable for a workshop.

Breathe (2)..

After returning back from Easter we had our second 'Breathe' meeting for this unit of my SDP. By this time all the designs for the production had been finished and finalised so we were allocated our designs and teams we'd be working in.

Here are some examples of the designs/ groups...

I will be working on bits and pieces for all there of these groups. For the 'Jesters' I will be working along side 3 other students to make hats, collars, skirts, breeches and sleeves. There is a lot of work for these costumes so we began discussing various ways we can produce the custom elements for the base costumes quickly, effectively and efficiently. We thought that elements such as the collars could be done during workshop run sessions for the 'Breathe Club' being held after studio practise time on Wednesday evenings. Myself and one other student decided we'd work together to come up with a workshop plan as a solution. More complicated aspects would be tackled during our Thursday studio sessions...

The other 2 students I'm working with for the 'Hunters were absent during this session so we didn't get a  chance to have a discussion for how to tackle the design work. However I did come up with a few ideas which I spoke with my supervisors to. They were ideas on certain materials we might use, textile processes etc. The main elements of these designs are the cloaks and the headdresses. They want a more structured, layered appearance so lots of problem solving will be needed for these costumes. As well as working as part of a team in this unit for hand in we will have needed to have constructed our own individual element of a costume(s). I got the choice of which 'Hunter' character to focus on as well as helping with team pieces/ workshops. For this design I will focus on construction the cloak..

I was also going to focus making on a pair of breeches for a 'Jester' costume however another student in the third year wanted to help so she will now be doing this. I was then asked if I'd help make a skirt for one of the 'Rebels'. I really like the design for this so I wasn't unhappy about the swap. For this design there was talks of using lots of recycled plastics as well as other types of materials. This is something quite different and quirky from what I'm used to working with so I'm quite excited to take on the challenge.... 

Now having the designs and seeing what we've got to work with I'm a lot more motivated and enthusiastic towards the project. It's something very different from what I've worked on previously in other units and from the costume store side of SDP. Instead its very creative and inventive. I think it'll develop my creativity as a costume maker further, challenging me in ways to construct garments and using materials I'd never thought. Already it's helping me to work as a team player and as a leader when thinking of possible workshops to run in the 'Breathe Club'....

Costume Store - Breeches

After returning from the Easter break we were thrown immediately into the construction of our second garment. Each member of the class had been assigned to make either a pair of 18th century fall front breeches or waistcoat. I'd been assigned to make the breeches.

When I'd found out I was making the breeches I was a little worried. They looked quite intimidating from first glance due to all the components they comprised of such as; two different working pockets, front flap openings, all fully lined etc. It would definitely be a challenge to make compared to the shirt and any of the other previous garments I'd made so far this year. But a challenge isn't something I normally shy away from so I saw this selection as something positive. 

Breeches...

This is the sample garment...

Once I'd learnt which garment I'd been making I was then allocated my measurements, given my pattern and given the fabric I'd be working on. The fabrics I'd be using was brown cashmere wool with a black cotton used to back everything. These sorts of fabrics were very luxurious compared to some of the others being used. So it would seem that these breeches along with the matching waistcoat, being made by Bethany, would be used to portray a more upper class, wealthy character in future productions/ uses.

Once all the basic information had been provided the next task was to cut out the lining and top fabric. I managed to cut out the lining fabrics quite quickly and efficiently working as a team with the other girls using the same lining fabric/ pattern. However I couldn't then cut my top fabric out due to Bethany's absence. I'd learnt previously in costume 'wastage' is a huge issue with fabric, especially as you're usually working on a tight budget. This time was no exception. We'd already been informed but the supervisor, Amy, that there was only enough fabric to cut out the pieces tightly squished together. Due to this I'd have to be very economically efficient when cutting and wait for Bethany's return. Once this happens I'd then be able to press on with the next stages of the breeches construction...